In the beginning, there were two rivers: the Tigris and the Euphrates. Between them rose Mesopotamia, often called the cradle of civilization and believed by many to be the site of the biblical Garden of Eden. For someone fascinated by history, culture, and the layers of humanity that shape a place, southeastern Turkey felt irresistible.
My sister joined me on this journey through the ancient lands surrounding Mardin, Şanlıurfa, Diyarbakır, Halfeti, and Mt. Nemrut. She had not researched the itinerary in depth, but she brought the best qualities a travel companion can have, curiosity, openness, and a willingness to simply experience.
This was not just another sightseeing trip. At times, it felt like walking through the pages of history itself. Bruce Feiler described it beautifully in Walking the Bible, and standing in these landscapes, we understood exactly what he meant.
In Hasankeyf, we waded in the waters of the Tigris beside a city that has largely disappeared beneath a reservoir created by a massive dam project. In Halfeti, we boarded a boat on the Euphrates to see another partially submerged town, where minarets and stone structures still emerge hauntingly from the water.
Mardin may have been the highlight for me. Perched high above the plains of Mesopotamia, the honey-colored stone city seems suspended between worlds, ancient yet alive. Looking out from its terraces across the vast plains below, it is easy to imagine caravans, empires, and civilizations that once passed through these lands.
In Diyarbakır, the unofficial capital of Kurdish culture in Turkey, we walked along the great black basalt walls overlooking the Tigris and the Hevsel Gardens, landscapes cultivated for thousands of years.
Then came Mt. Nemrut. Standing at nearly 7,500 feet beside the giant stone heads of gods and kings surrounding the tomb of King Antiochus, I could not help but wonder what kind of determination and human effort it took to create such a place centuries ago.
And finally, there was Şanlıurfa, the city of Abraham, where the sacred Pool of Abraham draws pilgrims, families, and travelers alike.
This journey through Mesopotamia was immersive, emotional, and unforgettable, the kind of travel that stays with you long after you return home.