My cousin lives near Krapinske Toplice, and I always enjoy taking a drive through Zagorje’s hills when visiting her. Today, I picked her up and took her to lunch in Desinić, my first visit to Grešna Gorica, a charming klet (vineyard house) turned countryside restaurant. It sits in the heart of Hrvatsko Zagorje, Croatia’s castle country, a region of soft, curving hills, winding roads, and timeless villages scattered between vineyards and orchards.
Just an hour north of Zagreb, Zagorje feels like a different world, tranquil, green, and deeply rooted in tradition. Every hill holds a story: a whitewashed chapel, a vineyard heavy with grapes, or a manor that once belonged to a noble family. Driving there is a joy in itself, a ribbon of roads that twist and climb, revealing new views with every bend.
Grešna Gorica carries its own tale, too. According to legend, the hill was a secret meeting place for two forbidden lovers, Veronica and Frederick. Because of their “sinful” love, the hill became known as Grešna Gorica, “Sinful Hill.” Today, that same hillside is home to a welcoming restaurant run by the Podboj family, serving traditional Zagorje dishes made with heart and heritage.
Inside the klet, everything feels cozy and authentic — wooden beams, warm light, and the scent of home cooking. We shared a platter of local meats and cheese, a golden štrukli baked to perfection, and a glass of crisp white wine. From the dining room, you can’t see Veliki Tabor Castle, but from the summer terrace you can, standing proudly across the valley, watching over this gentle landscape of vineyards and history, in a region where castles, wine, and stories live side by side.
It was a beautiful afternoon, a short drive, a memorable meal, and a reminder that in this part of Croatia, even a simple lunch can feel like a journey through time.